Hiking Havasupai Part 1 – An Extravagant Gift

Thirty years ago, I drafted my Big Dream Bucket List. On thinly lined paper the words, "Backpack to Havasu Falls," claimed the top spot. As a college student (during an integrated learning program) I spent 5 days at the Grand Canyon, learning the history, culture and geography. I heard about the Havasupai tribe living at the base of the canyon and was intrigued. Amidst the Havasupai Reservation, the magnificent Havasu Falls danced with the people, and I longed to see it with my own eyes. Yet, as the years rolled by - marriage, babies, a mortgage, and kids' hockey fees -  I let my big dream drift into oblivion. 

Fast forward to the present, on an ordinary autumn day at the gym, my friend and client Melissa pranced in with enthusiasm announcing that she, her husband and friends secured 4 permits for Havasupai Falls Campground.  You see, Havasupai Campground is by reservation only, most who apply are denied. Of course, I was thrilled for her!  I didn't even do the 'thing' where you act excited on the outside, but secretly feel the twinge of jealousy on the inside. No. I was genuinely EXCITED for her. I knew this opportunity was rare.

Four hours later my phone buzzed in my pocket - a text from Melissa. She wrote that her husband was unable to attend the trip, so she was inviting me! What?! It took half a millisecond for my fingers to punch out, "YES!" Shaking my head is disbelief, I quickly texted my husband who would need to solo-parent our 3 boys so I could be away for an entire week, backpacking down to spend three glorious nights at the bottom of the Grand Canyon.  He immediately agreed. Tears of joy filled my eyes in awe of this EXTRAVAGANT gift. A chance to make my dream a reality!

Only one month later, my companions and I parked a truck loaded with backpacking gear at the top of Hualapai Hilltop on the Havasupai Indian Reservation in Arizona. The dream team consisted of: Melissa, Stephanie, Brian and myself.  From the trailhead, with vigor, we began the 1.5 mile hike - downhill. After meandering switchbacks, the trail shifted to a gradual decline for 7.5 miles on a loose pebble path. Crimson canyon walls towered over us, guiding the way. In my mind, the thought tumbled endlessly – I CANNOT BELIEVE I'M HERE!

After hours of hiking, we paused to doctor sore feet. I noticed Stephanie. Her back revolted against her heavy pack while her feet began to scream. Yet she donned a courageous and impressive smile, while we kept trekking along.  After 4 long hours we reached Supai Village, only accessible by foot, mule or helicopter. Trudging our way through a sea of sand, we beheld a one mile-long community consisting of homes, horses, wild dogs, a beautiful HeadStart and elementary school buildings, a store, a tribal police station, 2 churches, a café, a post office and a few more miscellaneous buildings. Who dares to live in the midst of such isolated beauty? We honored sacred ground.

As we left Supai Village, an auspicious sign announced waterfalls ahead. Little Navajo Falls greeted us on the left strutting its clear cascade down the hillside.  Turning the corner, past the frybread stand, there it was in all its splendor - Havasu Falls - the last waterfall before we entered the campground.  A natural spring of 70 degrees creates Havasu Creek feeding all the waterfalls a high mineral concentration of lime, dyeing them a stunning hue of blue-green.

I could not resist a good piece of frybread and gladly indulged. Enjoying my Supai Burger (frybread, 2 beef patties, mustard, tomato, lettuce, and onion), I visited with other sojourners from Seattle and Vancouver.  Yet, we felt a need to move on because the campground operates on a first-come first-serve basis. Throwing my heavy pack on, we continued.

Next stop - Fern Spring, our water source for the next 4 days. It's a natural spring protruding from a rock, requiring no filtration. We hiked for only 5 minutes past Fern Spring before settling on a secluded campsite, complete with a quaint picnic table. Little did we know... it was also home to one rascally raccoon.  

Now we set to work - erecting tents and arranging sleeping pads, mummy bags, and sleeping pillows (which I highly recommend for a good night's sleep).  Jetboils heated our water for an easy supper of beef stew and spaghetti with beef marinara sauce; our food supplies semi-secured in bags against a nearby tree.  Darkness and cold descended around 6pm, which signaled the end of our first day. We knew sunlight would break in around 7:20am, bringing with it a chilly 32 degree morning.  

At dawn; bundled in my stocking hat, mittens, puffer coat, and Smartwool socks; we gathered for a simple oatmeal breakfast.  It was then we discovered our camp scavenger, who ultimately raided us every night of the trip. We imagined it was R.J. the Raccoon from the animated kids movie, Over the Hedge. During the course of 4 days, that pesky raccoon ate 4 bagels, an oatmeal packet, several backpacking meals, cough drops, and a big bag of peanut butter M&M’s.  How rude!

With warm bellies we now secured our food in a bag hung high in a tree. Bearing only our daypacks, we headed to Mooney Falls, the largest waterfall on the Havasupai Indian Reservation.  It was a quick hike from our campsite, but getting to the base of the falls was another story entirely. A few short switchbacks led to 2 small caves with a gentle descent.  After the last cave awaited a wet and slippery 75 foot vertical drop to the bottom with only heavy chains as handrails. For some, this was the most frightening part of the hike, but I LOVED IT! Luckily, a complimentary pile of grippy garden gloves were made available to all who dared adventure here.

Mooney Falls produced a refreshing mist that hovered over the water and the trail. Joining with our new friends from the frybread stand (Anish, Neelu, Jordan, and Sulagna), we continued hiking an 8 mile round trip to Beaver Falls. We had 4 streams to cross, with the deepest reaching just below my waist. The weather that day was 45-50 degrees without direct sunlight and the water matched the chilly air. There was really no reason to jump into the pond at Beaver Falls - only the sheer thrill. Still, I couldn't resist and plunged into the frigid water, soaking in every moment of my dream come true. 

Day 3 was filled with shorter hikes, basking in the sun, listening to the cascading sound of the waterfalls, and a short hike into the village for more frybread, naturally. We ended that day with an early bedtime since a 5:30am wake up call would begin our journey home. 

As a group, we had discussed the ascent at great length. Due to some physical challenges making the 10 mile incline difficult and the sheer amount of time we'd save, we collectively agreed to catch a helicopter ride out of the canyon instead of embarking on the 5 hour trek up and out. Yet, helicopter rides are also first-come, first-serve. In haste, we tore down our campsite, and marched to the village with only the moon as our guide. Our resolve was rewarded as we fell into line, securing the third spot. And by noon, we were back at Brian’s truck with all our gear, agreeing that the cost ($140/person) to ride the helicopter was well worth it.

I've been home for a few weeks now. As I ponder my experience, I see it as an EXTRAVAGANT gift. Though I did not seek this trip, this trip found me. I surrendered my dream of Havasupai years ago, yet it surfaced at just the right time. 

Stay tuned for Part 2 –  a reflection on the gift.